Most people try to avoid Manila, and we understand why: the traffic is heavy, the heat is real and the city sprawls across sixteen cities and one municipality with no obvious centre. But spend a day or two here with a plan, and Manila becomes the key to everything else. This is where the country's Spanish, Chinese, American and Malay layers sit side by side, often on the same street.
The historic heart is Intramuros, the walled city founded by the Spanish in the 16th century. Across the river is Binondo, established in 1594 and widely considered the oldest Chinatown in the world. To the south, Makati and Bonifacio Global City (BGC) are where the modern city lives, eats and goes out. Our advice: pick one or two neighbourhoods per day, travel outside rush hour, and eat as much as you can.