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Inside

Moalboal

To swim into a sardine shoal straight off the beach, no boat needed.

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Moalboal is really Panagsama, a strip of dive shops, small guesthouses and bars along a rocky shore a few kilometres from the town itself. It's not a beach destination in the usual sense; the point is what's just offshore. A reef wall drops away almost from the water's edge, and since around 2010 a huge shoal of sardines has lived there, often visible with a mask and snorkel. Turtles are common, Pescador Island is a short boat ride away, and Kawasan Falls and the canyoneering route through Badian are close by.

Sardines, turtles and Pescador

The sardine run is the main event: a shoal of millions, a short swim from Panagsama. Behaviour varies daily, but it's usually there. Pescador Island, around 20–30 minutes by boat, has a wall and a cathedral-like swim-through. Turtles are common along the house reef. Freediving schools are increasingly popular here, thanks to deep water close to shore.

On land

Canyoneering from Alegria or Badian down to Kawasan Falls is the standout: several hours of jumping, swimming and sliding through a turquoise river canyon, with guides and helmets. White Beach (Basdaku), around 10 minutes north of Panagsama, is the nearest proper sandy beach.

Insider notes

Inside Moalboal

Journeys including Moalboal

Clear blue water over a coral reef off Moalboal, Cebu

12 days · Essential / Boutique / Premium

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Cebu • Malapascua • Moalboal • Bohol

All by road and sea, with no domestic flights: Cebu city's history and food, Malapascua's sharks, Moalboal's sardine run and canyons, then Bohol.

From €1,700per person ·

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A turquoise waterfall pool in the forest on Siquijor

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Visayas on a Budget

Cebu • Moalboal • Siquijor • Bohol

Three islands for a sensible price: Moalboal's turtles and sardines, Siquijor's waterfalls and Bohol's hills. Simple, well-chosen hotels and transfers by road and sea.

From €1,300per person ·

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A diver over a coral reef in clear blue water in the Philippines

20 days · Essential / Boutique / Premium

Dive the Philippines

Manila • Coron • Malapascua • Moalboal • Dumaguete

Four of the best dive areas in the country: the wrecks of Coron, thresher sharks at Malapascua, the sardine run at Moalboal, and Apo Island and macro diving at Dauin.

From €2,600per person ·

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Use this journey as inspiration. Change the islands, hotels, pace, activities or number of nights.

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Questions travellers ask

1. Can I see the sardines without diving?

Yes, snorkelling is usually enough. The shoal is often a few metres down, a short swim from shore.

2. Is there a beach in Moalboal?

Panagsama is rocky. For sand, go to White Beach (Basdaku), a short drive north.

Nearby

Whole roast lechon being carved at a market in Cebu

Cebu

Inside

The country's oldest city and the busiest hub in the Visayas, with the best lechon in the Philippines and waterfalls, whale sharks and reefs a few hours south.

Why go
Cebu connects to almost everywhere in the Visayas, and it's worth a few days in its own right.
Best for
Food · Waterfalls · Diving · Island connections
How long
2–5 nights
Best season
December to May
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Palm-lined Rizal Boulevard by the sea in Dumaguete at dusk

Dumaguete

Inside

A relaxed university town on Negros with a seafront promenade, very good diving at Apo Island and Dauin, and ferries to Siquijor.

Why go
For Apo Island's turtles and some of the best macro diving in the country, with a pleasant small city as your base.
Best for
Diving · Snorkelling · Slow city life · Island connections
How long
2–4 nights
Best season
December to May
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A small, car-free island off Cebu's northern tip, known worldwide for early-morning dives with thresher sharks, and for its easy, barefoot pace.

Why go
To see thresher sharks at dawn: one of the few places on earth where that happens almost daily.
Best for
Diving · Small-island life · Snorkelling · Couples
How long
3–4 nights
Best season
March to June
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A banca boat at dusk off a Philippine island

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