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Dumaguete

For Apo Island's turtles and some of the best macro diving in the country, with a pleasant small city as your base.

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Dumaguete is the capital of Negros Oriental and a university town, home to Silliman University, founded in 1901 by American missionaries. Students, retirees and divers give it an easy, friendly mood, and its seafront, Rizal Boulevard, is one of the most pleasant evening walks in the country. Most visitors come for what's around it: Apo Island, one of the country's oldest community-run marine sanctuaries; Dauin's black-sand dive sites full of macro life; the twin crater lakes of Balinsasayao and Danao in the hills; and the fast craft to Siquijor.

Apo Island and Dauin

Apo Island, around 30 minutes by boat from Malatapay south of Dumaguete, is a small volcanic island protected since the 1980s by its own community. The reef is healthy and turtles are seen on almost every snorkel. Visitor numbers and fees are managed, so book ahead.

Dauin, around 30 minutes south of the city, is a world-class macro destination: black-sand slopes with frogfish, seahorses, ghost pipefish and nudibranchs. Several dive resorts line the coast.

Around the city

Walk Rizal Boulevard at dusk. Drive into the hills for the Twin Lakes of Balinsasayao and Danao, in a forest park around an hour away, or to Casaroro Falls near Valencia. From Bais, around an hour north, boat trips look for dolphins in the morning and visit the Manjuyod sandbar.

Food

Dumaguete is known for its silvanas and sans rival, layered cashew-meringue desserts, and for budbud kabog, a sticky millet cake eaten with hot chocolate and ripe mango. The Malatapay market south of the city is a weekly market (traditionally on Wednesdays) with livestock trading and lechon.

Insider notes

Inside Dumaguete

Journeys including Dumaguete

Late afternoon on a quiet beach in Siquijor, with a single bangka pulled up on the sand

16 days · Essential / Boutique / Premium

The Slow Philippines

Manila • Dumaguete • Siquijor • Bohol • Siargao

Fewer stops, longer stays. Siquijor's waterfalls and healers, Bohol's countryside, then four unhurried days in Siargao. For people who would rather know one place well than see six.

From €2,400per person ·

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A diver over a coral reef in clear blue water in the Philippines

20 days · Essential / Boutique / Premium

Dive the Philippines

Manila • Coron • Malapascua • Moalboal • Dumaguete

Four of the best dive areas in the country: the wrecks of Coron, thresher sharks at Malapascua, the sardine run at Moalboal, and Apo Island and macro diving at Dauin.

From €2,600per person ·

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Use this journey as inspiration. Change the islands, hotels, pace, activities or number of nights.

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Questions travellers ask

1. Is Dumaguete worth staying in or just a transit point?

Stay at least two nights. Apo Island and Dauin are among the best diving and snorkelling in the country.

2. How do I get from Dumaguete to Siquijor?

By fast craft, around 1–1.5 hours, several times a day.

3. Can I visit Apo Island without diving?

Yes. Snorkelling with turtles there is excellent.

Nearby

Turquoise tiers of Cambugahay Falls in Siquijor's forest

Siquijor

Inside

A small island with an outsized reputation for folk healers, plus turquoise waterfalls, a quiet ring road and sunsets over empty beaches.

Why go
To slow right down on an island you can circle in a day and still not want to leave.
Best for
Slow travel · Waterfalls · Couples · Culture
How long
2–4 nights
Best season
December to May
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Sugarcane fields below the slopes of Mount Kanlaon in Negros

Negros

Inside

A big island of sugar country, heritage towns and grilled chicken in the north, and quiet beaches, marine reserves and Dumaguete's easy pace in the south.

Why go
For a slice of the Philippines that few international travellers see, with very good food at every stop.
Best for
Food · Heritage · Road trips · Quiet beaches
How long
3–6 nights
Best season
December to May
Explore →
Rounded Chocolate Hills in morning mist in Bohol

Bohol

Inside

The Chocolate Hills, tiny tarsiers, a slow green river and the beaches of Panglao, all within an easy two hours of each other.

Why go
For the easiest mix of beach, countryside and wildlife in the Philippines, with very short transfers.
Best for
Families · Countryside · Diving · First visits
How long
3–5 nights
Best season
December to May
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A banca boat at dusk off a Philippine island

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