Inside
For a slice of the Philippines that few international travellers see, with very good food at every stop.
Add Negros to my journeyNegros is the fourth-largest island in the Philippines and one of the least visited by international travellers. Its north, Negros Occidental, grew rich on sugar in the 19th century, and the old planter towns of Silay and Talisay still have grand ancestral houses. Bacolod, the provincial capital, is known for chicken inasal and for the MassKara Festival every October. The south is quieter: the beaches of Sipalay, the marine reserve at Danjugan Island and, on the other side of the mountains, Dumaguete, the gateway to Apo Island and Siquijor. Driving between them, past cane fields and the volcanic slopes of Mount Kanlaon, is part of the appeal.
Spend a day in Silay, about 30 minutes from Bacolod, walking among restored ancestral houses, some of which are museums. In Talisay, The Ruins, the shell of an early 20th-century mansion burned in the Second World War, is especially beautiful at dusk. Back in Bacolod, eat chicken inasal, grilled chicken basted in annatto oil, and try piaya, a flat pastry filled with muscovado sugar.
Sipalay has long, quiet beaches and good diving, with Sugar Beach reached by a short boat ride or a walk at low tide. Danjugan Island, a protected marine and wildlife reserve, can be visited by arrangement with its managers. From here it's a scenic drive to Dumaguete and the ferries to Siquijor.
Insider notes
Use this journey as inspiration. Change the islands, hotels, pace, activities or number of nights.
Add Negros to my journeyYes, especially for food, heritage and a quieter Philippines. It pairs well with Siquijor, Dumaguete and Iloilo.
It's held in Bacolod in October, with the main events usually on the weekend closest to the fourth Sunday.
Inside
A relaxed university town on Negros with a seafront promenade, very good diving at Apo Island and Dauin, and ferries to Siquijor.
Inside
A small island with an outsized reputation for folk healers, plus turquoise waterfalls, a quiet ring road and sunsets over empty beaches.
Inside
Four kilometres of powder-white sand on a small island built for easy holidays: sunset sails, good food, kitesurfing and very short distances.
Tell us when you're coming. We'll help design the rest.