The Philippines faces the Pacific on one side and the South China Sea on the other, which gives it two swell seasons, two sets of coastlines and more surf than most visitors expect. It is not Indonesia: swells can be inconsistent, some breaks only work for a few weeks a year, and reefs are shallow. But when it is on, Siargao in particular has waves that hold their own with anywhere in Asia, and the surf culture here is warm, local and growing.
Siargao: the centre of Philippine surfing
Siargao, off the northeast tip of Mindanao, faces the open Pacific. Its most famous wave, Cloud 9, is a hollow, fast right-hander over a shallow reef in General Luna, reached by a wooden boardwalk that has become one of the most photographed spots in the country. On a solid day it is an expert wave. Do not paddle out there for your first reef session.
Around General Luna, there are options for every level:
- Cloud 9: hollow right, experienced surfers only on bigger days.
- Jacking Horse: a softer right-hander next to Cloud 9, popular with beginners and improvers at the right tide.
- Quicksilver and Stimpy's: reef breaks reached by boat, Stimpy's a fun left on its day.
- Rock Island: a powerful right off a small island, for confident surfers.
- Daku Reef and Guiwan: mellow waves, good for learning when conditions are right.
- Pacifico: in the north of the island, a long left that works best when the northeast monsoon is blowing, and a quieter alternative to General Luna.
When to surf Siargao
Siargao's surf is generally at its most consistent and best groomed from around August to November, when Pacific swells arrive and winds tend to suit the east-facing breaks. This is also when the island is liveliest, and competitions are often held. From roughly November to March, the northeast monsoon brings more swell but also onshore winds and rain to many breaks, which is when Pacifico and other sheltered spots come into their own. From around April to July, the ocean is often flat or small: perfect for learning, not for chasing barrels.
Luzon: La Union and Baler
For surfers based in Manila, two towns matter. La Union, about five to six hours north of Manila by road, has the beach breaks of San Juan: friendly, sandy-bottomed and ideal for learning. The season runs roughly from October to March, with the northeast monsoon. Baler, in Aurora province, faces the Pacific and is where Philippine surfing took off; it is often said that locals started surfing after a film crew left boards behind in the 1970s. Baler's season is roughly October to February.
Both have a strong local surf scene and lessons at almost every hotel. Neither is as beautiful as Siargao, but they are easy additions to a trip that starts or ends in Manila.
Other breaks worth knowing
- Eastern Samar: Pacific-facing and very little developed, for surfers who are happy to travel far for empty waves.
- Catanduanes: the "Land of the Howling Winds", with a renowned right called Majestic in the typhoon season. Remote and weather-dependent.
- Zambales: a few hours from Manila, beach breaks that work in the southwest monsoon season.
- Mindanao's east coast: further from the tourist trail, with spots best explored with someone who knows them.
Learning to surf
Siargao and La Union are both excellent places to learn. The water is warm (no wetsuit needed, though a long-sleeved rash guard is wise), lessons are widely available and instructors are often local surfers who grew up on these breaks. Look for:
- Small groups, ideally one instructor for one or two students.
- Soft-top boards for beginners.
- Instructors who explain tides and reef safety before you get in the water.
- A beginner-friendly spot at the right tide. On Siargao, reef breaks can be very shallow at low tide.
Two or three lessons are usually enough to stand up. A week is enough to start catching your own waves.
Reef safety
Most Siargao breaks are over reef. Wear booties if you are not used to it, surf at mid to high tide when you are learning, and treat reef cuts promptly; they get infected easily in the tropics. Bring a small first aid kit with antiseptic. Ask locals before paddling out at an unfamiliar break: currents and channels are not always obvious.
Etiquette
Surf culture in the Philippines is friendly, but local surfers deserve respect on their home breaks. Wait your turn, do not drop in, and if you are a beginner, keep away from the peak at Cloud 9. Smile in the line-up; it works.
Boards and travel
Flying domestically with a surfboard is possible but must be pre-booked as sports equipment, and smaller aircraft have limited space. Many visitors rent boards on Siargao instead; there is a good range for every level. If you are bringing your own board, pack it well and tell us early so we route you on flights that accept it.
A surf trip, designed
Our Surf and Islands journey combines Siargao in the autumn swell season with a calmer island at the end, so non-surfing partners have something too. For surfers coming in the European winter, we often suggest La Union or Pacifico, combined with Palawan's dry season. Tell us your level, honestly, and we will match the island to the wave.
