There is a certain kind of traveller who arrives in the Philippines, sees El Nido and Boracay, and quietly wonders whether there is anything slower. There is. It is a small island in the Visayas, about an hour by fast craft from Dumaguete, and Filipinos still lower their voices slightly when they say its name.
Siquijor.
The reputation
For generations, Siquijor has been known around the Philippines as an island of healers and sorcery. Its mananambal, traditional folk healers, use herbs, roots, prayers and rituals passed down through families. In Holy Week, healers from across the region gather in the mountain town of San Antonio to prepare potions, a tradition that draws curious visitors as well as people seeking cures. Some Filipinos still tease friends who are heading to Siquijor, telling them to be careful what they eat.
The reality is gentler. Siquijor is one of the friendliest and safest-feeling islands in the country, and its mystery is mostly in the atmosphere: dark jungle roads at dusk, old trees, quiet churches and the sense of a place that has kept its own rhythm.
The coastal road
The best way to see Siquijor is to drive around it. The coastal road is roughly 70 to 75 kilometres, which you can complete in a day by scooter or with a driver, though it is better spread over two. On the way, you will pass most of what the island is known for.
- Cambugahay Falls, near Lazi: a series of turquoise pools fed by a river, with rope swings and wooden rafts. Go early, before the day-trippers from Dumaguete arrive.
- The Lazi church and convent: a coral-stone church from the Spanish era, and across the road, a large old convent of timber and stone, one of the most impressive historic buildings in the Visayas.
- The old balete tree: an enormous strangler fig, said to be several centuries old, with a spring at its roots where small fish nibble your feet.
- Salagdoong Beach: a pretty cove on the east coast with cliff jumps into deep water.
- Paliton Beach: a small, white-sand beach on the west coast, our favourite for sunset.
- The Siquijor and Larena churches, and small chapels in almost every village.
Under water
Siquijor's coastline is lined with reefs, and much of the snorkelling starts from the beach. Turtles are common. There is good diving along the walls on the west and south coasts, and it is a short boat ride to Apo Island, one of the country's best-known marine sanctuaries.
The pace
Here is what nobody tells you: there is not much to do on Siquijor. That is its gift. After a busy island, two or three days here feel like a week. Most evenings are spent watching the sun go down from a beach or a clifftop, followed by dinner and an early night. The island goes quiet by 9pm.
If you need nightlife, go to Boracay or Siargao. If you need a bookshop, bring a book.
Where it fits in a trip
Siquijor works best after somewhere busier, not before. Our favourite combinations:
- Bohol and Siquijor: around two hours by fast craft from Tagbilaran, a gentle pairing of countryside and coast.
- Dumaguete, Apo Island and Siquijor: a slow Visayas loop for divers and snorkellers.
- El Nido, then Siquijor: limestone drama followed by complete calm, via a flight to Dumaguete or Cebu and a fast craft.
Three or four nights is the right amount. Two is too few to slow down; five is wonderful if you have the time.
When to go
Siquijor is generally at its best from around November to May, when the sea is calmer and days are dry. From June to October, the southwest monsoon can bring rain and choppier crossings, though the island is reasonably sheltered compared with Palawan's west coast. Holy Week is a special time to visit for the healers' gathering, but book well ahead.
Practical notes
- Getting there: most visitors arrive by fast craft from Dumaguete (about an hour), or from Tagbilaran in Bohol or Cebu City (longer, fewer departures). The nearest airport is Dumaguete.
- Getting around: scooters are widely available, and drivers can be arranged if you prefer not to ride. Roads in the interior are steep and winding; take it slowly, especially after rain.
- Money: bring cash. ATMs exist but are few and can run out.
- Connectivity: decent in the main towns, patchy elsewhere. This is not a bad thing.
Why we love it
Siquijor is not the most spectacular island in the Philippines. It does not have El Nido's cliffs or Siargao's waves. What it has is harder to find: a place where you can drive for an hour and see more goats than tourists, swim in a waterfall at 7am with nobody else around, and end each day with a sunset you did not rush to catch.
Put it on your itinerary. Then try very hard to leave it on time.
